BLOG 41 - Wandering about like a Vagabond, in Search of Something Elusive
- ranganathanblog
- May 25, 2022
- 8 min read
It is difficult to describe the state of my mind during this period. I was yearning for something I did not know about. I was searching for something that was at the edge of my consciousness, but elusive. On the outside, I was my cheery old self but deep down, something was stirring. I needed to discover myself.
Chapter 4 – A Batchmate’s Wedding – My Wanderlust Takes Over and Takes Me Places
I was now serving out my notice period, but on leave. I had to re-apply for a new passport, for which there was a two month waiting period.
A visit to the Tirupathi temple and Tiruttani temple were due. (Tiruttani temple houses our family deity).
As usual, my Father and I took an early morning bus and reached Tirupati town around 9 am. Handing over a small bag, my purse and sandals to my Father, I started walking from the Bus Stand, through the town and up and over the hills, along the path and steps to the temple on top of the 7th hill, a distance of about 9 kilometres, 3550 steps. In the initial years I used to cover this distance in slightly more than 2 ½ hours, later stretching to 3 hours, then 3 ½ hours.
The temple complex is massive. But my Father and I had an arrangement. After getting down from the bus, he would have breakfast and leisurely take the bus to the temple on the hill and wait for me at the huge ‘kollam’, a huge water tank, where fresh water is pumped in and pumped out continuously and where pilgrims would bathe.
I would bathe and we would take up accommodation in one of the numerous residences of the temple. An evening ‘darshan’, a meal and we would be back in our room. Very early next morning, around 2am, we would have a bath in the temple tank and attend one of the ‘sevas’ (rituals) for the Deity and leave the temple.
A bus downhill would see us in Tirupati town before 7 am. A quick breakfast and we would catch the State Transport bus to Tiruttani. One more ‘darshan’ of our family deity and we would be back in Chennai by evening.
Over the years, this 2 temples’ visit became a ritual that took place about 2 weeks before I joined any ship.
After the quick trip to Tirupathi and Tiruttani with my father, my hankering to see other temples in the South increased. Providentially, my batchmate Rajan Isaac sent me an invitation for his marriage in Ernakulam. I say ‘providentially’ as it gave me the perfect platform for a trip around South India, with him getting married in Ernakulam. My Father planned a circuitous route for me to see many of the famous temples. His knowledge and depth of memory was astounding, as his advice also included what hotel to stay at and what dishes are the specialty of hotels in that area.
Courtesy Google Maps – Distance 691 kms
With just a small kit bag, some money and a check book, I took a train and reached Cochin the morning of the church wedding. After a bath and change at a hotel, I took an autorickshaw and gave the driver the address, which was a small church. He took me to probably 12 or more churches that morning, till I chanced on the right one by luck. The auto rickshaw driver was honest enough to admit that he could have brought me here in a few minutes and would not take any money. I insisted and paid him.
Rajan had been looking out of the 1st floor vestry window when he saw me from a distance, as I was enquiring about whose wedding it was. He sent his cousin to catch me and welcome me. That was how I attended his wedding with Sheila. To my surprise, my batchmate Gittoo Kapoor was also there, his ship being in Cochin Port.
The church wedding over, I was treated as one of the family and put in a chartered bus to Trichur, Rajan’s home. As the house was overflowing with guests, I opted to stay in a hotel, attended a few of the post marriage festivities and quietly bade farewell to them. They both remain my lifelong and close friends to this day.
Courtesy Google Maps – Distance 84 kms
I started my pilgrimage of temples from Trichur and Guruvayoor, both very close to each other..
I attended the first darshan of the morning of the deity Guruvayurappan. I spent quite a few hours in the temple premises. Repairs were still ongoing after a massive fire in 1970. The ambience inside the temple is one of peace.
I also visited one more temple in Thrissur itself but am unable to recollect which one.
Courtesy Google Maps – Distance 277 kms
A State Transport Express bus ride from Thirussur to Thiruvananthapuram (about 280 km), brought me to the latter city in the evening. A bath and change and I was off to the Padmanabhaswamy Temple.
One of the features of this temple that I noticed that was different to the Kerala design of temples was the massive and ornate Gopuram at the entrance. Even the interior was more in the Tamil Nadu style of temples. I spent a few hours that evening in the temple, looking at the sculptures and wall paintings. By this time, I had got into the habit of visiting the main temple of the area once in the evening and also the next early morning for the first puja performed. A few minutes or more would be spent with the priest getting to know the legends of the temple.
The next morning, the early ‘darshanaites’ including me, had to wait behind a barrier till the Travancore Royal Family - who are the custodians of the temple - completed their Darshan, as it had been traditionally done for centuries. The main deity, Lord Padmanabha, cannot be viewed singly and has to be viewed through 3 portals, due to the size of the deity. Another interesting facet is the main idol is made of thousands of ‘Saligrammams’ which were brought from, and only found in, a Nepali river, basically fossilised shells. These ‘Saligrammams’ play a very symbolic role among Vaishnavites.
I came to know about there being unopened vaults containing untold riches only after the Supreme Court’s Order of 2011. I now understand that there are vaults, named alphabetically by the Supreme Court for convenience (A,B,C,D,E,F) of which 5 have been opened. ‘B’ vault has not been opened and is shrouded in mystery.
The above website is an interesting read not only for the historical point of view, but also the legends associated with the temple. On the basis of Supreme Court orders, a few of the vaults have been opened and are being inventoried. The riches of the temple are rumoured to be very huge.
How did the several ‘invaders’ of India miss out on looting this temple? By last count, the Muslim invaders looted around US$ 12 Trillion and the British about US$ 45 Trillion. They missed out.
All in all, the Temple filled me with awe and wonder and I started realising that I was awakening to something deep within me and I found myself thinking about metaphysical matters more and more on my later sea voyages, when I was alone with my universe.
My next halt was Kanyakumari, a place that can probably trace its roots to more than 15,000 years ago and was part of the 1st Tamil Sangam. Standing at the very tip of Kanyakumari and, when facing South, one sees three seas or you have to imagine you are seeing three seas, the divisions being man made.
The closeby mountains are reputed to be full of medicinal herbs, with Sage Agasthyar a frequent visitor.
Suchindram was a temple worth visiting. Beyond the fact that all three deities of the Holy Trinity are present and worshipped here, this is only one of a very few temples where Brahma is idolised. The architecture of the Gopuram, the pillars inside are all wondrous and it immediately makes you appreciate human skills that can produce statues and carvings of such intricate beauty. Even the legends of the temple are fascinating.
Courtesy Google Maps – Distance 85 kms.
A pretty short trip brought me to Tirunelveli where my cousin – my father’s elder sister’s son – was District Magistrate. I stayed with them for a couple of days.
Temple visits included a darshan of Shiva as Nellaiappar, the presiding deity, along with his consort Parvati as Kanthimathi. Once again this temple and its environs are all part of 10 to 15 centuries of Tamil folklore and history. It was immortalised into a Carnatic Music classic by Muthuswami Dikshathar, a poet and singer who lived more than 200 years ago. My Mother used to sing this song when I was a youngster. Another immortal voice, that of MS Subbulakshmi, sings the same song. Site attached from YouTube.
sri kanthimathim - hemavathi - m.s.subbulakshmi - deekshitar
The temple details are on the following website. The most mind boggling aspect of this temple were the ‘Singing Pillars’, pillars of stone that each produce a different tone when struck.
I also visited the Lord Murugan temple on the sea shore at Tiruchendur. Once again, lots of legends about the temple. Murugan is worshipped more by the Tamils than by anybody else. This temple is also one of the 6 main temples deifying Him. My family’s deity (Kula Deivam) is also Murugan. Hence it was a very satisfying and humbling visit. The architecture and size of the temple is not much to speak of. He has many names: Subramanya, Muruga, Shanmuga, Velava and more.
A 200 year old composition in praise of Lord Murugan, known as Kanda Sashti Kavacham, forms the bedrock of prayer recitals to invoke His blessings and strengthen us for our daily lives. It is one of the few that I recite at intervals.
Saying thanks to my cousin and his wife, my next stop was Madurai.
An evening Darshan followed by an early morning darshan at Madurai Meenakshi Temple made for happy days. I was now at a place that was steeped in Tamil history going back to thousands of years. The seat of the Pandya Kingdom, it was the cultural centre of learning, poetry, arts, politics and had its roots in the 2nd and 3rd Tamil Sangams. Legend has it that the 1st Tamil Sangam was situated well south of Kanyakumari and was destroyed when sea levels rose. It was reputedly known as ‘Kumari Kandam’ (Kumari Continent) and refers to a sunken continent that existed as a continuation of the Indian sub-continent. Because everything was destroyed, there is barely any evidence to support this, barring vague references in ancient Tamil in several Temples. Research on this has been mostly rudimentary and has not had the funding or support of the Government.
The main Gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple is a delight. Each figure has been carved with such depth of perception and precision. It was my first visit to Madurai and I was fascinated.
The temple left me in wonderment at human prowess. The history of Madurai fostered a lifelong ambition to keep myself updated in later archaeological finds in Tamil history.
Acknowledgement to Google and Alarmy.com for above photographs.
I was staying in a hotel pretty close to the temple which had been recommended by my Father. The rooms were sufficient but the vegetarian food was extraordinary. Food for the soul and food for the body in one stroke.
From Madurai I moved on to Tiruchirapalli.
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I must state here that, except for the first leg from Chennai to Cochin which was by train, all other legs were by State Transport buses. They were frequent, good and timely, passengers being inquisitive but friendly, sharing whatever food they had brought. They were from all walks of life, mostly from the numerous villages, simple in their lifestyles, modest in their wants and at peace with themselves.
Ostentatious travelers who strut around with their riches are either targeted by thieves or shunned by the common people. During these travels, the only ornamentation i wore was cheap watch. Total strangers would converse with me and, sometimes, pour out their troubles. If asked, I would relate to an awe struck group things I had seen around the world and would, in turn, be surprised at the probing questions that would be thrown at me.
The wandering Marine Engineer when at sea who doubles as a wandering minstrel when ashore.
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